Smooth travel is always a challenge. My favorite traveling partner and I began our latest quest with wide eyes and bushy tails.
Our best trip was completely un-constructed, with the exception of our first night’s hotel. A former convent with 7 stories of tiny curved steps, that’s about when I learned how to travel light the hard way. We thought we’d see and do the works because, why not?
New resolution, more time in big cities or road trip only with a city at each end max. 3 major European capitals with a bit of country charm thrown in made for a lovely if a bit exhausting mix.
Paris was par excellence comme habitude.
Our first night ended early complete with Marais street vendor gyros and frites (jet lag makes for strange food choices). Washed down with a really nice Bordeaux in our rented apartment in our fave ‘hood (16 Rue du Roi de Sicile between the St. Paul metro stop and the Place de Vosges), it made for a nice easy start to our journey.
Like most of the world, I love Paris, alone, with friends, whenever.
We like to think we’re reinvented revolutionaries with interesting past lives, but really it’s because whether it’s fashion or the butcher’s front window, Paris is still IT for design.
You have to look a bit harder these days with the homogenization of the international shopping scene, but it’s still there. That je ne sais quoi of the big city grit matched with tasteful and sometimes over the top art of living.
Day two
A packed metro ride to the expo with a long day at Premiere Vision, the biggest textile show in Paris featuring European fabrics and fittings. Fois gras sandwiches and Sauternes for lunch at a trade show? Pourquoi pas? No hot dogs here, except for the designers, of course.
Back to the city for dinner and meet up with another friend who euro-starred it from Rome. We had a nice stroll to the Isle St. Louis in search of one of my tried and true restaurants L’Ilot Vache.
Literally “Cow Island” it’s named after the pastures where Louis’ cattle roamed, but now it’s primarily American and British expats who do the grazing through sweet petite shops, restos and boutique hotels. Enjoyed a first round of escargots with a corner table view. The eclectic décor is a funky blend of cow inspired kitsch and dramatic flower displays that somehow winds up being elegant. Only the French could pull off that combination.
Ahhh, day three.
Official work done, and a bit of time to be touristes. Beginning with a walk through Notre Dame, really a touchstone of all that is France, mile 0 and all.
Then onto St. Chapelle, which was new to my fellow travelers. The blue stained glass windows and fleur de lis covered ceiling create a calm and beautiful space that’s relatively undiscovered compared to Notre Dame.
Hungry, we zipped by Metro to the Rue Cler near the Ecole Militaire. We gathered an amazing picnic of roast chicken, more fois gras, cheeses, baguettes and gorgeous desserts from Le Notre -- an absolute jewel of a patisserie. Then to complete things, we stopped by Nicolas (a nice chain of wine shops) for a chilled bottle of Laurent Perrier Champagne.
Leisurely walked over to the Champs de Mars to secure a worthy spot in the shade with an idyllic view of the Eiffel Tower. So much better to be sipping bubbly with the view then waiting in line for the elevator. Climb it once if you’re determined, and enjoy the view from the terrace.
More walking with intermittent shopping (including a stopover at my fave couturier in Paris just to try on amazing Oscar worthy dresses. Next time I’m buying one, and hopefully there will be a occasion that lives up to the outfit!) and café stops until finally back to the apartment with achy feet and huge smiles.
Then it was one last stop before changing for dinner, Shakespeare and Company, not exactly undiscovered, but always interesting nonetheless, for the clientele as much as the for the selection. I always buy one little book and have them stamp the inside cover -- a nice talisman and a reminder to return.
Dinner that night was a place recommended by a Parisian friend. Located on a little side street off Faubourg St. Antoine was the perfect little bistro. Tobacco stained walls, a cheery bartender, and an old fashioned waitress who looked more St. Paulie Girl than Parisian made the escargot, steak frites and Medoc go down very smoothly.
We decided we needed to do one club with dancing not just posing. Barrio Latino fit the bill with it’s Gustav Eiffel interior and Brazilian cocktails, an easy option without journeying to the 16th. Besides, Buddha bar, Pershing Hall and all things Costes have already been checked off the list.
Running to catch the train to Budapest, slightly hungover, banging bags down metro stairs along the way, we made our hasty departure. Laughing and breathing hard, we land in our seats, excited and ready for our next adventure.
